Parametrage du deferlement des vagues dans les modeles spectraux: approches semi-empirique et physique (Setting waves in the spectral model: semi-empirical and physical approaches)

The dissipation of wave energy is generally parameterized empirically with an arbitrary separation between white-capping and depth-induced breaking. Here we follow recent developments in phase-averaged spectral models and extend the semi-empirical parameterization to include the loss of short wave energy due to the breaking of longer waves. The physical basis of this parameterization is discussed and an extension is proposed, giving a unified parameterization for both white-capping and depth-induced breaking. That physical formulation is the product of two verifiable quantities that are the energy dissipation rate per unit length of breaking wave front and the breaking probability for each wave scale.