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Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics

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journal contribution
posted on 2024-07-11, 07:17 authored by Dmitry Chalikov, Alexander Babanin
An extremely large ('freak') wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values

Funding

Numerical Modelling of Extreme Waves Generated by Tropical Cyclones

Australian Research Council

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Coupling tropical cyclone and climate physics with ocean waves

Australian Research Council

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PDF (Accepted manuscript)

ISSN

0253-505X

Journal title

Acta Oceanologica Sinica

Volume

35

Issue

5

Pagination

6 pp

Publisher

Springer

Copyright statement

Copyright © 2016 The Chinese Society of Oceanography and Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg. The accepted manuscript is reproduced in accordance with the copyright policy of the publisher. The definitive version of the publication is available at Springer via http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13131-016-0862-5

Language

eng

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