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Freak waves in weakly nonlinear unidirectional wave trains over a sloping bottom in shallow water

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posted on 2024-07-13, 01:21 authored by Odin Gramstad, H. Zeng, K. Trulsen, G. K. Pedersen
Using a Boussinesq model with improved linear dispersion, we show numerical evidence that bottom non-uniformity can provoke significantly increased probability of freak waves as a wave field propagates into shallower water, in agreement with recent experimental results [K. Trulsen, H. Zeng, and O. Gramstad, 'Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry,' Phys. Fluids24, 097101 (2012)]. Increased values of skewness, kurtosis, and probability of freak waves can be found on the shallower side of a bottom slope, with a maximum close to the end of the slope. The increased probability of freak waves is typically seen to endure some distance into the shallower domain, before it decreases and reaches a stable value depending on the depth. The maxima of the statistical parameters are observed both in the case where there is a region of constant depth after the slope, and in the case where the uphill slope is immediately followed by a downhill slope. In the case that waves propagate over a slope from shallower to deeper water, however, we do not find any increase in freak wave occurrence.

Funding

Numerical Modelling of Extreme Waves Generated by Tropical Cyclones

Australian Research Council

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PDF (Published version)

ISSN

1070-6631

Journal title

Physics of Fluids

Volume

25

Issue

12

Article number

article no. 122103

Publisher

American Institute of Physics

Copyright statement

Copyright © 2013 AIP Publishing LLC. the published version of the article is reproduced with permission of the publisher. It may be downloaded for personal use only. Any other use requires prior permission of the author and the American Institute of Physics. The following article appeared in Physics of Fluids and may be found at http://doi.org/10.1063/1.4847035

Language

eng

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