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Statistical Properties of Directional Ocean Waves: The Role of the Modulational Instability in the Formation of Extreme Events

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posted on 2024-08-06, 09:17 authored by M. Onorato, T. Waseda, Alessandro Toffoli, L. Cavaleri, O. Gramstad, P. A. E. M. Janssen, T. Kinoshita, J. Monbaliu, N. Mori, A. R. Osborne, M. Serio, C. T. Stansberg, H. Tamura, K. Trulsen
We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crested and steep waves are more likely to be populated by freak waves with respect to those characterized by a large directional spreading.

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ISSN

0031-9007

Journal title

Phys. Rev. Lett.

Volume

102

Issue

11

Publisher

American Physical Society

Copyright statement

Copyright © 2009 American Physical Society. The published version is reproduced in accordance with the copyright policy of the publisher.

Language

eng

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