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Wave crest and trough distributions in a broad-banded directional wave field

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posted on 2024-07-09, 18:10 authored by Alessandro Toffoli, E. M. Bitner-Gregersen, M. Onorato, Alexander Babanin
It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels.

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PDF (Accepted manuscript)

ISSN

0029-8018

Journal title

Ocean Engineering

Volume

35

Issue

17-18

Pagination

8 pp

Publisher

Elsevier

Copyright statement

Copyright © 2008 Elsevier Ltd. The accepted manuscript is reproduced in accordance with the copyright policy of the publisher.

Language

eng

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